Cherax quadricarinatus

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Lobster Care When I first started keeping crayfish, information wasn't overly easy to come by or very consistent, so I decided to keep some notes. I've put them here in case they are of use. Bear in mind I am not an expect, at all, and this is mostly just a collection of things that I have either found out myself, or gathered from other people or websites. (Sorry that I haven't credited anyone, but I didn't think of it at the time). But generally speaking, the care is very similar to fish. (I have included some shopping links at the bottom to help with finding equipment & food). Type I wrote this when in the UK, where the only legal species of crayfish to keep was the Cherax quadricarinatus. It's most commonly known as the Australian Red Claw Crayfish, but goes by many different names, such as yabby. This is the lobster that I am basing all of my information on. Australian Redclaws for the most part resemble any other crayfish. They are usually brown (but can come in other colours, such as deep blue). They can grow up to a foot long, and live for 5 years. Adult males develop a red stripe on their claws, hence the name "red-claw". Estate A standard fishtank will do the job (I recommend glass over plastic). The species doesn't seem to require any special adaptations, and will be fine in fully aquatic conditions. The tank must be big enough for the lobster to freely move and explore. Their size should be considered, along with their habits. As mentioned, they can grow to a foot long. Their personalities can vary, but they may like to explore, and may even swim, run, or climb. This makes a secure tank lid essential. Their usual method of locomotion is walking, so floor space is more important than gallons. I decided upon a minimum of 3ft long and 15 inches wide, and was able to house two together, though the more room the better. I would also recommend plenty of nice hiding spots (preferably ones where you can still peek into, as some like to hide a lot). I recommend placing the fisk tank out of direct sunlight to avoid excessive algae growth. And away from any heat sources to avoid rapid or unawanted temperature changes. Flooring For substrate, ordinary aquarium gravel is perfectly adequate. Thoroughly rince any substrate before adding it to the aquarium, and ensure it is aquarium safe before use. (I used "aquarium gravel" which was essentially just coloured plastic, I recommend real gravel instead, because it will look and last better). Your lobster will probably want to dig, and this may stir up certain substrates into the water. And since lobsters are likely to dig, push gravel, and move plants, I probably wouldn't bother with a special substrate for plants (plants may not stay in it long anyway, as the lobster will likely arrange, trip, and/or eat things as it sees fit). Water: Filtration Despite being bottom feeders, lobsters benefit from clean water, so a good filter is needed. I used a Fluval canister filter (the specific type will depend on tank size). Since lobsters hack up plants, and bits of plants can slowly clog things up, you may want to monitor inlets and pipes for such clogs. For the filter media, choose whatever suits you or is recommended by your fish supplier. I largely used "Biomax", which filters water while holding on to beneficial bacteria. When cleaning the filter, it's recommended to not change all the filter media at one time, as well as to wash it in tank water (rather than tap water), to help retain the beneficial bacteria inside the medium. Water: Additives Conditioners: As with fish, you will need water 'conditioners' to neutralize any metals and chemicals present in tap water. This can readily be found in pet shops or online. Salt: Apparently it is a good idea to have some salt in your tank. The goal is not to create a saltwater environment, but to have slightly brackish water to help reduce bacterial infections. You'll want to avoid table salt, as it could contain unwanted chemicals. Instead, use pure salt, such as sea salt or aquarium salt. The amount suggested to me was 2 grams per litre, and not to add more then 0.5 grams per litre in a day (I find that it's generally fine to just eyeball things, and add a little dash when you replenish the water). Bacteria: When starting up a tank, you will want to establish beneficial bacteria in the tank before adding any animals. You can buy used tank water from a fish place, and buy a solution in bottles. Other: It can also be good to add balancing solutions to an established tank as part of maintenance (these may assit with nitrates, pH, KH, bacteria, etc.). Water: Cleaning Over time, you will want to change out water to keep in clean, as waste can build up and cause problems. You will only want to change a portion at a time, as large changes to water (such as temperature, and levels of beneficial bacteria) can upset or even kill your inhabitants. The level of regularity will vary depending on your set up. I'd recommend replacing ~10% of water at a time (more is acceptable in cases of emergency). You can use tap water to replace the old water, but must use specific additives (mentioned above). Also be sure that the water temperature isn't too drastically different from the temperature of the water already in the tank (a little cooler is better than a little warmer, as it is less likely to induce stress). I often also go round with a fish net to pick up any debris in the water, as well as slightly churning up the gravel to help clean it. (I only do a section at a time though, to not cause too much stress). For the tank itself, algae eating fish can help keeps things looking clean (for example siamese algae eaters), or you can use either an old credit card, or a specialised brush to remove algae growth from the glass. Heating These fellows are from Australia, so a heater is fairly essential unless your house is always toasty warm. I've seen mixed info on the correct temperatures, but I set my thermostat to 20c, with my thermometer reading around 25c (which is quite a heavy difference, so watch out for inaccuracies). I get the impression that anything between 16 & 30 C (or 60 - 85 F in old money) will be acceptable. Too cold and its metabolism will slow down too much; too hot, and you might cook the poor bugger. (It can be a good idea to keep a spare heater, in case you break one, or need to use one for a temporary set up). You'll want to avoid rapid temperature changes, as this can cause stress or shock. Air Although lobsters breathe with gills as fish do, they do apparently benefit from quite aerated water. There are different types of aquarium aerators out there, and any of them should suffice. Light Ensure they have plenty of places to hide for when they don't want to be in the light. I would also recommend not keeping lights on 24/7 (ie. turn them off when you sleep). Lights however can help make the most of their colours, and help plants to grow. (as mentioned above, it's generally best to keep the tank away from direct sunlight, as it can encourage algal growth). Plants Your plants will probably not lead long lives; lobsters like to play with and eat them, roots and all. But, I still recommend having them, as they are good for water quality, diet, and enrichment. I recommend asking your fish supplier which plant types will be best for your set up and the health of your inhabitants (amazon swords are usually a good go-to). Friends Luckily Ive not found Red Claws to be especially aggressive, even to each other. It's usually recommended to keep them solitary, but if you want more than one crayfish in a tank, you must give them enough room to have their own space, along with adequate hiding spots (things could get annoying when it comes to moults, as they may sense vulnerability, or fight over shells). As for fish, you obviously want to make a selection that is least likely to get eaten. Fish that are small, bottom feeding, or have flowing fins will all be more likely targets. You'll also want to make sure that your fish aren't too large and aggressive either, as they might eat the lobster. I recommend asking at your fish supplier (but if you need a starting point, tiger barbs, rainbows, and siamese algae eaters seem to do well). One good thing about lobsters, is that if they do get injured, they will typically regenergate any part they have lost. Food When I purchased my first lobster, Elbow, I was told all I needed to do was feed him a mussel every other day. So I tried it, and he never ate a single one. I later found out that Crayfish are largely vegetarians. Here are some examples of foods that I used: Live Plants: A favourite, requiring minimal care. Vegetables: Good, but beware of pesticides; wash and peel. Carrot was popular (slice thin for easier chewing). Algae Wafers: Sinking food disc that is generally easy to find in pet shops, and does not upset the water quality too much. Crab Cuisine: Handy sized sinking treats for your lobsters to pick up in their pinchy feet and scurry away with. Eggshells: Boil and place in large pieces. May help improve exoskeleton strength and help with moulting. But beware of small, sharp pieces; it seems that fish can eat them and risk damaging their insides. Meat: Poultry or Fish, as an occasional treat. If they do not seem interested, remove the food. Also remove any food that is left uneaten, or it will negatively affect water quality. Feel free to research or experiment different vegetables and fruits, and to ask your fish supplier for advice. Harder things that sink are usually easiest. Pompey (pictured above) loved to eat grapes, but large amounts are probably not good for them (since copper is a pesticide in large amounts), so it's good to keep certain foods as treats just to be safe from unexpected risks. (As an interesting tidbit, pears seemed to cause confusion). Don't worry too much if your crayfish doesn't eat for a few days, it may be getting ready to moult, or it may be simply be full. They also seem to eat less when stressed, such as when they first arrive. Moulting As they grow, lobsters break out of their shells, and form new ones. If you aren't familar with the process, it's easy to mistake a moulted shell for a dead lobster. It is a regular part of their lifecycle, and occurs quite frequently when young, and will happen less frequently with age. Before moulting, your lobster may stop eating, become shyer, less active, and hide. This could well be an indication that it's nearing moulting. During this time, it may also start digging itself into its shelter, and may become more territorial. During the moult, the lobster will break a place in the back of their shell and wiggle out. You will usually be left with a fairly intact shell (a shell in pieces could be a sign of poor shell health in an adult lobster, possibly caused by a lack of calcium, or low water pH (high water acidity)). After the moult, your lobster will be notably larger, and soft. Leave the old shell for them to eat. It will help in the development of their new shell. It takes time for the new shell to harden (hours to days), and your lobster will be vulnerable to other creatures in your tank, so keep and eye out. Other crays will also probably want to eat the shell themselves. If you encounter problems between lobsters at this time and are concerned, you can take the lobster with the hardened shell out (leaving the shelless lobster in the tank with its shell), and place it in a large bowl of the tank water, leaving it to float in the tank, where it can keep warm from the heat of the tank water (they shouldn't have to stay in the bowl for too long, just so the other lobster has eaten most of its old shell). The new shell should be hard enough in a day or two for you not to have to worry about them. I find moulting to be a nervous time. I would recommend asking your fish store about anything you can do to help make moults easier for them. But unfortunately, it's likely that eventually, one day your lobster will be too weak to shed its shell, and will die. It just seems to be how they go. Sex It's hard to tell between male and female when they're young, but as adults, the males will develop a bold red patch on the outside of their claws. Adult female lobsters may produce eggs with or without a male. Pompey has had clutches of orangey/beige infertile eggs (fertile eggs are dark), which were 'glued' to the underside of her tail, and she tended to them, keeping them clean and aerated. Eggs will either hatch or fall off of their own accord. Additionally, according to a website I stumbled across years ago, "lobsters make tender lovers", and woo each other by urinating in each other faces. How I Came To Have Lobsters Many years ago, I saw a nudibranch (sea slug) on a calendar (more specifically a spanish shawl), and was dazzled by their appearance. Out of curiosity, I wondered if they could be kept in a marine aquarium, but quickly learned that they could not. However, while looking, I stumbled across images of bright blue lobsters, called hammers blue cobalts. I came to find out that it was not possible to purchase this species in the UK. But I was pleased to be able to find some Australian redclaws in my local fish shop, and could not resist the charming nature and beady eyes. So in January 2007, I purchased my first crayfish. I expected him to run off and hide as soon as I released him into the tank, never be seen again, but was pleasantly surprised with how active he was. He didn’t seem to be the most intelligent lobster, and he ran away from food, but he was quite entertaining; performing handstands, and climbing up and on whatever he could. Quickly getting more adventurous with his climbing, he seemed to develop a fondness for climbing onto the aerator, up the thermometer, up the wires, positioning himself infront of the water filter outlet, and letting himself go, stretching his limbs, and getting pushed by the current. I spent a whole evening trying to think of a name for my new pet. And since i couldn't think of anything better, he got landed with the name Elbow. The awkwardness of the name, and his walking posture seemed to suit it. I seem to be the only person that liked the name, but others eventually warmed to it. I had no intentions of getting another lobster, as apparently they are solitary and territorial. But while looking around a pet shop, later that same month, while looking at the fish tanks, a bright blue lobster came scampering up to the front of the glass, insisting on being purchased. I named her Pompey, mostly because it's what came to mind and liked how it sounded, but it's the name of a Roman general, rather than a reference to Portsmouth FC. I was worried they would fight each other. And as soon as Pompey was released into the tank, she scampered right into Elbow's cave, and then soon ran back out again, followed by a pair of claws. They both seemed a bit lost and confused, but eventually seemed to not only tolerate each other, but occasionally share a cave, or sit staring at each other. Unfortunarely, I did not know to add salt to the tank, and Elbow sadly died from an infection, leaving him unable to moult (during Elbow's decline, Pompey would give him an occasional nudge to check on him). With the water more brackish, Pompey was able to live longer, although I didn't make a note of how long. She seeemed content on her own, and mostly liked to spend her time rearranging plants and gravel like a bulldozer, and eating. I have sinced tried to keep different types of lobsters in the US, but their lifespans seem to be shorter, only a couple of years at best (I don't know if that's natural, poor breeding, or inadequate care on my part, so I have chosen to stop for now). Bartleby (a cute bright orange lobster, who enjoyed climbing plants) was a delight though. I may come to keeping lobsters again, as I do miss their personalities (although I did have one named Kepler who just hid away his whole life, and I almost forgot he existed). I just want to ensure that they are going to live a good life span. Currently I keep fish. Links Some Amazon links to products as examples. Canister Filter (Fluval) Filter Mediums (Fluval) Heater (Eheim) Light (Finnex) Aerator (HITOP) Algae Wafers (Hikari) Crab Cuisine (Hikari) Shrimp Delight (Ultra Fresh) Water Conditioner (Tetra) Easy Balance (Tetra) Test Strips (Tetra) Test Kit (API) Net (Penn-Plax) Algae Scraper (Mag-Float)